ZZP Girdled Gen3 Block
This variant is currently sold out
Please include a phone number at checkout for this item!
This is for builds over 600WHP where a girdled Gen 3 block is required.
Gen3 block with added upper block girdle. ZZP block girdling is an alternative to sleeving the Ecotec block. It prevents the sleeves from breaking, and improves head gasket sealing w/o O-ringing. It has 360 degrees of support around the upper sleeve.
- 2.0L option has a 86mm bore (The 2.0 block is drilled for oil return, if you do not need the oil return hole, email us and we can include a plug)
- 2.4L option has a 88mm bore (The 2.4 block is drilled for oil feed, but not drilled for oil return, this hole can also be plugged if you dont need it)
Includes upper and lower block portions, & bolts.
Advantages of ZZP girdle over sleeves:
- Better cooling
- Better head gasket sealing on high HP builds
- Much less chance of install/build error
- Less cost
- Far less material removed.
- Less chance of coolant leaks or block failure.
- Zero sleeve/girdle failures to date
- Adds nearly zero weight to the build
- sleeves add a few pounds
- Longer life due to less cylinder distortion.
- Girdling blocks have better rigidity than stock.
Blocks are not honed, oil plugs are included, but will need to be installed during final assembly.
The OEM sleeves are extremely strong. They are steel, the problem is that they are completely unsupported at the area they receive the most stress. When breaking people thought the sleeves we're weak so they installed Darton kits. Problem with Darton sleeves is that they destroy your block. The block becomes weak, cooling is greatly reduced, weight is increased. The picture below shows this on two blocks cut in 1/2. 1st, see the red between cylinders? that's from cracking where the block is cut so thin that it can't hold expansion contraction of steel sleeves which grow at a different rate. Alum is brittle. The loctite went right in between cylinders into the cracks that the owner didn't even know were there. 2nd, look at the sleeve casing of the block and edges. That is all that is holding the block together now. You've cut HALF of the material holding the top and bottom of the block together. This is why high HP builds break them in 2 and have to be 'fixed' by running studs top to bottom.
We have experienced sleeved cars with cooling issues and noticed that they run hotter than stock vehicles. There is also talk about the differences in a Gen 1 and Gen 2 block. Below is a sleeved Gen 1 block. The areas in blue are where coolant is traveling. Notice how the cooling on the Gen 1 block covers less than 1/2 of the cylinder bore but on the Gen 2 it covers 2/3 of it? This is the increased cooling discussed on the Gen 2 block.
With sleeves you change things a bit tho. The stock sleeve is only 60 thousands thick. The lower part of the cooled sleeve is a total of .220 thick with the top being .300 thick. .240 is aluminum which cools very well. The Darton sleeve is .280 thick of steel which doesn't transfer heat well. This is where some of the increased cylinder wear comes from and why Darton sleeved motors run hotter.
This brings us back to the cars Darton showcases and the GM race vehicles. Guess what? They run filled blocks and methanol and only run for seconds at a time. Methanol burns very, very cool. But when building a street motor, heat matters a lot. KR comes quicker on sleeved blocks and timing and/or boost must be reduced, lowering overall HP potential.
Due to the size and weight, this must be freight shipped or picked up locally.